Introduction
Women’s fashion in the context of the nineteenth century was rather diverse and was associated with the social status, type of activity, and trends in change. On the part from simple wear that was used on a daily basis to the gorge gowns that were worn during special occasions, fashion was not only in looks, but also in the course of expressing one’s self and social status as well as the need in the specific period.
Layers of 19th Century Fashion
The undergarments, chemise, drawers, stockings, corset and petticoats made up the basic layer well known as the “foundation apparel” of every outfit. These layers all women irrespective of their social status, wore them, although the fabric differentiated them. Some of the affluent women could have worn more fancier materials such as silk while the women in the lower class had to wear coarser materials like cotton or even linen.
The chemise was an essential garment, designed to absorb sweat and protect the outer garments. Drawers which were rather flimsy ensured that their users had easy and unfettered access to their bathrooms without compromising on factors of decency. Stockings were worn by pulling them up with garters or ribbons; here they are illustrated in various materials and colours with white and black stockings being most popular. But these garments were not only for the show but also for comfort.
Corsets: More Than a Stereotype
Huge misconceptions about corsets exist to this day, and many people assume that the garment was a tool by which women oppressed themselves; in fact, corsets were necessary to support garments that are similar to undergarments or shapewear of today. Originally meant for the hips and the back area, it assisted women in bearing the burden of many petticoats and other layers. Corsets were expected to be worn directly on the skin, cinched at the waist, tailored to the specific body measurements of the wearer hence a little bit more convenient as compared to the modern ones. Contrary to what many people believe, the majority of women of the XIX century wore corsets, which were not very tight and which allowed the comfortable movement and look attractive.
The Art of Petticoats and Crinolines
It was up to women to determine how many petticoats or crinolines they would wear depending on the occasion. A working dress was needed but a few petticoats and a spit curing gown could have layers of starched petticoats and a crinoline very good for the then much sought bell shaped skirts. Whalebone or steel petticoats or crinolines were in vogue to provide the final touch to the fullness of the dress.
Clothing and Textiles as Images of Society
Clothing aesthetics therefore extended far beyond the garments worn in the 19th century. Middle class women such as Sarah and Catherine, nieces of Washington Irving, could not wash their own underclothes; this was done by laundresses. Female behaviour was also defined by social norms, and even when playing simple games such as the ”Graces,” women’s movements had to be graceful and modest.
The Bottom Line
The fashion of the 19th century was utilised in many aspects of women’s daily lives and was far from being a mere decoration. Undergarments and overgarments: every garment had a function—in terms of use, appearance, or social status. And yes, there has been a change in fashion trends but it is empowering to know that choices of the past are still relevant in the present.
Those interested in sharing their insights on women’s fashion today can contribute to our Women's Fashion Write For Us section.
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